"the devil is in the details"
Soundproofing is a bit like waterproofing, in that a small leak can kill it. The big difference is that sound can get in through many frequencies. Where a thin layer of plastic can block water, two heavy/damp/decoupled walls with insulation and an air gap in between them on top of an engineered floor is where we begin to be really effective against noise intrusion.
While building soundproofed walls is outside the scope of most home or commercial float center owners' skillset, it's good to have a basic understanding of what's going on, and even more importantly perhaps is to know potential fail points in an otherwise well constructed room. This way we can oversee the construction of our rooms, and ensure that all the details get attention. If the room is already built, there is still some things we can do to fortify the room.
Common weak points in a quiet room can include:
- The door.
- The door framing (these gaps can be seen behind the door trim.)
- Outlet boxes (extraspecially if found between the same studs as an outlet in an adjoining room!)
- Light fixtures.
- Baseboard trim (where the wall meets the floor).
- Window framing (behind the window trim.)
Basically, if there's anything less than a sound wall there, question it.
Listed below are some products that are here to help on these weak points.
doors. gotta have 'em.
But did you know that the entrance to your float room is most likely the weak link in your soundproofing? These door covers are an affordable fortification against sound and light getting into your precious float suite, and are a great addition to any float room.
With an industrial vinyl facing, and easy installation and removal for cleaning, these door covers are float room ready. They add an STC rating of 29, and block light from getting through gaps in the door frame.
the door bottom is important!
To really quiet the threshold we're going to need to mind the door bottom as well. For the best seal we recommend a combination of a heavy duty, high sound automatic door bottom and a door saddle. These two will immensely dampen airborne sound.
don't forget the trim
The door covers shown above do a good job of blocking noise that comes through the gaps in framing around the door, which is hidden by the door (and window) trim. We strongly recommend you remove the trim to seal behind with some soundproofing rubber and/or acoustical caulk. When in doubt, cover it! Overkill on soundproofing makes for great floats :)
outlets & fixtures
These puddy pads are great, and we use them liberally on outlet boxes, HVAC punctures, light fixtures, even some of the shower fixtures.
For recessed can lighting, an effective and affordable solution is to build a box around them above the ceiling if you can, using two layers of scrap drywall with green glue in between. Then seal the gaps with acoustical caulk and put a fireproof blanket or insulation on top. Shhhh!! :)
and if you happen to have a window in your float room? lucky you!
To order these and other noise blocking improvements head over to Trademark Soundproofing's extensive website. If you'd be so kind, when making an order please put "referred by Mandala" in the checkout note. Thank you for supporting us!